I looked forward to my Murshidabad trip, hoping to see only the palace and a few of its mosques. To my surprise, the town turned out to be a place where history and present-day life are juxtaposed in its spaces. Tea stalls are near ancient gateways, and I saw children play cricket under the ruins. By the second day of my stay, I stopped using the map and started walking down the lanes instead.
Murshidabad is in West Bengal, located on the banks of the Bhagirathi River. The city was made the capital of Bengal by the Mughal Nawab, Murshid Quli Khan, in the early 18th century, and after him, the palace was ruled by Siraj ud-Daulah. The place’s significance changed after its fall at the Battle of Plassey in 1757, but many of its structures remained.
Walking through Kila Nizamat in Murshidabad
I began at Kila Nizamat, the old fort area, because most of the town’s major sights are clustered there. Hazarduari Palace is the largest. It was built in 1837 and gets its name from its thousand doors. Today it works as a museum, with galleries of paintings, weapons, furniture and chandeliers that once belonged to the nawabs.
The building opposite the palace is called Nizamat Imambara, a long hall of white colour made for religious gatherings. The length of the structure is around 680 ft, which makes it one of the biggest in the country.
Katra Masjid and the older Murshidabad
A short ride from the fort, I reached Katra Masjid, a red brick mosque built around 1723 by Murshid Quli Khan. It also served as a caravanserai, so the structure includes rows of arched rooms around a courtyard. Locals mentioned that the name means market mosque, since a bazaar once grew around it.
I visited the site late in the day. The sunset transferred a different tone to the brick walls, and the quiet corridors drew attention to the few people passing by and a man cleaning the staircase. This experience apparently gave me a better understanding of the history behind the town than a visit to the Royal Palace.
Palaces and tombs around Murshidabad
Other sites sit a little farther out. Katgola Palace belongs to a wealthy merchant family and has gardens and a Jain temple on the grounds. Nashipur Rajbari looks like a smaller version of Hazarduari and now holds a small museum with family belongings and old documents.
In Jafarganj, I passed through Nimak Haram Deuri, the entrance to the former palace of Mir Jafar and stopped by the neighbourhood cemetery. These two places make an even stronger impression compared to other historical places, since the latter have a more polished look, while the sites in question have an authentic feel.
Getting around Murshidabad
The distances are short, but the places of interest are far away from one another. A local e-autorickshaw, or Toto, is the best means to overcome this distance.
Carry water, wear comfortable shoes and dress modestly when entering religious sites. Some palaces have set visiting hours and closing days, so check locally before you go.
Where to stay near the Murshidabad sites
Staying close to the Hazarduari area saves time, since the main attractions are a short drive away. Hotels in Murshidabad around Lalbagh and the riverfront work well for early starts. Some travellers prefer a base in nearby Berhampore, which has more transport links and then travel each morning.
Why Murshidabad stayed with me
I felt Murshidabad rewards a visitor in patience more than in speed. Its grand buildings matter, but the lanes between them matter just as much. If you give it two unhurried days, the town begins to reveal itself, one doorway and one quiet courtyard at a time.
